Thursday 17 January 2013

13 - 14 Jan Iguassu Falls from Argentinian side

I discovered that the mosquito free last campsite was not without its beasties as my legs now host sand-fly bits. OMG they are sooooo itchy! Arghghghgh!

We reached our next campsite and then pitched our tents and hit the pool. By the time I got back from the pool, site maintenance had dug a huge trench going towards our tent and stuck the brightest streetlamp at the end of it.....one meter from our front door. Classic. Eye masks rule etc.

We all spent the next day at the Iguassu Falls, a 3km set of falls which are shared by Argentina and Brazil (and allegedly Paraguay although they don't really get a look in). We took in the beautiful views by walking around the national park's walkways and taking its train, looking out for birds (I missed the Tucan) and watching the Coaties play.

Coaties.....awwww















9 - 12 Jan Bit more camping on way to Brazil

Big truck days to cross Argentina now (10 hours) and one nighters at campsites. My scent is now bug spray rather than chanel no 5. We're starting to see fire flies at night, which I don't get bored of, the weird little things. One eve, round the campfire, V decided she would try to catch one with some encouragement from Pete and when she brought it over to him, he commented he'd never seen one like that/that big before! ha! It was more like a cockroach, with twin headlamps (two lights over it's eyes) instead of a lit bum, which I think the smaller flies have.

River by the campsite


Neil, the hot water magician, with his immersion heater always ready for a cup of tea


We drove down a road that we would all have been pushing us down, had it been raining, but luckily it wasn't.



Dusty truck


Heather managed to find a soggy bit though when she was looking for a suitable bush during a loo stop. She saved the flip flop though!




The lads scavenging firewood


I now own shorts! I don't think I have owned shorts for 20 years, but needs must etc. Seeing all sorts of new birds and bugs and a huge variety of beautifully different coloured dragonflies. Our next campsite was all about the wildlife


and I took a sunset boat trip out to see the caiman (like alligators but their own species) and capybara (cute and the biggest rodent apparently - the male adults are about the size of a medium dog).










This guy got out to get a pic with the Caiman (nutter)










Mikkel brought a snake and a huge toad into the kitchen area to show us (nutter).

Heather's toes provide scale


Oh, also hearing 'sacadas' (sp?) which I think are like crickets but man, they are LOUD! They sound like a circular saw cutting through wood. The soundtrack is now that, along with the fairly frequent slap sound of someone taking a mosquito out. Also saw the Milky Way here at night which was pretty impressive. Impossible for me to photograph with my point and shoot so trust me, it's cool.

Visited the Jesuit missions which were knocking around between 1600-1800, then arrived at another campsite with a pool.

Tony being a prankster





This site also had a rather wonderful bar which produced gorgeous fresh cocktails for 20 pesos (3 quid) for a half litre glass (plus a while the extra quarter litre because the barstaff had made too much and thought it was wasteful to keep pouring it down the sink. They soon ran out of the traditional spirit of 'cashasa' (phonetic rather than proper spelling) which is a sugar cane spirit with hidden evil alcoholic content, and moved onto rum. I stopped at one cocktail, but some of my fellow overlanders did not, leaving them a bit fragile the next day. This campsite even had entertainment in the form of a local guitarist, playing and singing traditional songs. Fab.





2 - 8 Jan Santiago and Mendoza - wine country!

Time to head for the wine regions of Chile and Argentina. :-)

We were a little delayed in leaving due to Pete throwing a box up to the wood locker at the top of the truck.....then when it missed the box and gravity took over, catching it....with his face. 5 stitches at the local hospital and we were off. He was fine really and Kirsten looked forward to removing the stitches in a week's time. We're trying to persuade her to make it a group activity.

Stopped at Salto del Laja, a beautiful waterfall where it seems locals come with their families to enjoy the cool, refreshing spray and take a dip in the pools. Then a 2 minute drive to our campsite, which overlooked a similarly beautiful waterfall. We set our chairs out as though we were watching TV. More addictive then Emmerdale.







Temperatures are now in the 30s so we are starting to get swimming pools at some sites. Much needed after a day in a hot truck, tent set up and bag sort. If the showers are a bit ropey/cold/outdoors then I'm starting to regard a swim as 'getting clean'. It's funny how one's standards change according to environment. Rather than aim for 'clean' with my clothes (hand)washing, I now find myself using phrases such as 'cleaner' or 'clean enough'.

I nearly floored myself by joining the trip to a Chilean vineyard at 11am.

Pished? Ush?


Duncan & Francois dressed up for wine tasting


Mucho barrels


The vineyard owner's personal collection below. Nice.


Our hosts at the Balduzzi vineyard were generous and so I slept in the truck while some of my fellow overlanders went to another vineyard in the afternoon. Tired and dehydrated, I was mucho unimpressed to find that our next campsite had lots of huge horseflies, which took a liking to me, biting me through my clothes FFS! I can't explain why but anything that would crunch to crush freaks me out, even to swat away, so after 6 bites (them) and a fair bit of shrieking and swearing (me) I was about ready for a good cry. I settled for an early night and escape to the tent instead.

Santiago was explored on foot and after a fair bit of camping, we had one night in a hotel. Hurrah for real beds. Not the prettiest of rivers running through its centre......

Willy Wonka's chocolate factory?


....but we found a good spot to while away a few hours over a late lunch in the Bellavista part of the city. Only particularly memorable observation other than that was the number of couples smooching in the parks. They were everywhere! Good on em, I say.

Getting from Chile back into Argentina took us through the Andes, with some crazy views and roads and a border crossing at about 3200metres high.

17 switchbacks (or something like that) on this bit of road









Mendoza saw us take in 3 vineyards and one olive oil production place....an oliveyard? I thought it wise to pour out some of the wines into the spit bucket this time (sorry Rachel/Amanda, I know, I should be ashamed, but in my defence, it was hot etc and I don't fancy one of my hangovers on a truck). I picked up a rather restrained couple of bottles of wine and some olive paste (like a pesto) and dried roasted tomato paste, which now awaits a picnic opportunity. The tours round the vineyards were interesting but we probably looked a bit disinterested for our last guide. I wonder if he heard Ken saying "just give me the booze" at the back of the group. Ha.

Luckily for us, the campsite we wanted hadn't responded to emails and so we were in a hotel in town again. 4 beds and a lot of stuff in a small room, a wet room bathroom (ie, shower over toilet), electricity that turned off now and again, but a bed nonetheless.

Dinner out for many of us and Vanessa managed to clear a steak that wasn't far short of the size of her head.








Unbelievable. Seriously warm here. Midnight took us off to a bar which advertised a drag show at midnight. On they came at 2am, but only after some of our gang had entertained us with their attempts on the pole on stage.




Introducing myself to the drag queen and showing her some pics of my fellow overlanders' skills proved later to be a mistake when she asked me, during her show, in fast and (to me) unintelligible spanish whether I would participate. "Just say 'si'" shouted my 'friends' and I assumed she was asking if I was having a nice time in Mendoza. So, I was suprised to find myself pulled on stage for a dance off.

First the fear


Oh! THAT dance Duncan!





Duncan (see Bariloche post for background) and I were each paired with a local, but when "Gangnam Style" came on, which is clearly Duncan's signature tune, it was game over for me and my partner. Despite the disappointment at the clear flagrant rigging of this 'competition' by Duncan (ahem ha ha)I was slightly relieved when the music started as my Argentinian partner had told me it was the "horse song" which when not written down, could be interpreted by a terrified brit who has just unwittingly entered a dance contest as the "whores' song"!

Mendoza is a totally dead ghost town during siesta (which the Argentinians like to stretch from about 1pm to 5pm, so it's no wonder the economy here is a bit shaky) but come the evening, it is packed......

Busy


Much of the activity is based round the biggest of the city's 5 squares, with families flocking to have ice cream, watch performances, or dip in the fountains. I'm starting to get a bit sleepy at midnight but the toddlers are still going strong. It's so hot here, it's very strange to think a few weeks ago we were looking at Glaciers. Mendoza generally gets rain once a month, but it's had no rain for 5 months. Craziness.



We spotted an unfortunately titled tour bus....



Monday 7 January 2013

Pucon 30th Dec 2012 to 1st Jan 2013

Next stop, Pucon, Chile's extreme sports capital, for New Year.
waiting for border control to search the truck......they found an apple and two eggs. Slapped wrists for us




Pete wanted to go on a road that overland trucks don't go down, because of the beautiful views, so we left at 6am! Work it out, we have to get up, have breakfast, bags into trucks, tents down etc before we leave. eek.
Departure time




Pete was right about the views












This lucky couple got to share their romantic spot with us lot for lunch!!




We stayed at a big campsite this time and only 5 minutes walk into town past the marina, so pretty cool.




Pucon has an active, snow capped volcano so most of the group decided to climb that on new years eve.




It turns out it was mostly snow covered rather than snowcapped and the reward for the 6am departure and killer 4 hour climb in snow gear and crampons in a line of people, was that the safest way down was to slide down on your bum! A big group from our trip did that, others went zip lining and Angela and I decided to go out of town to a posh thermal bath instead and after a lie in, a lovely healthy breakfast at a veggie hostel 'Ecole', spent 3 hours meandering the japanese water garden style spa and its 17 baths of varying temperatures.












freezing cold plunge pool. Angela went in 3 times, me 0 times. Ha./i>




changing hut








The climbers were in high spirits but pretty wiped out.....








.....and Angela and I were very chilled out so it was a fairly civilised New Year's Eve for us, topped off with champagne and fireworks (we were at camp, fireworks were on the beach). Francois opened his bottle by slicing the top (including the glass) off with a knife. (Even Pete doesn't carry a sabre). Very cool. I need to have a go at that. :-)
local supermarket. It tickled me.




dinner out at Mamas and Tapas




head torches were needed for later arrivals